September 13, 2004

By J.C. Myers Correspondent

MARSHFIELD – Visiting Wellspring farm, says one of its patrons, is like "Christmas every week, because there's always a surprise like fresh fennel or soy beans."

Sunday, though, it was more like Thanksgiving – which in a sense it was. The organic farm, a Community Supported Agriculture operation or CSA run by Mimi Arnstein, celebrated a Harvest Party.

Members of the CSA, Arnstein and her apprentice farmers, along with students and chefs of the New England Culinary Institute (NECI), gathered in the farmyard for hayrides, an apple toss, mural making, a tug-of-war between vegetarians and carnivores, all in a festive atmosphere with a band playing acoustic Irish music.

A highlight was the buffet of local foods. NECI students stood behind white-linened tables and served up a feast for free: Maple apple galette from local apples, cheese from Jasper Hill Farm in Greensborough, Beefalo kabobs with meat from Hollister Hill Farm, Les Snow's sauerkraut, and eggs from Wellspring farm.

Mark Molinari, a NECI instructor, says that the visits to the farm are popular among students and a good way for the school to recruit as well.

Arnstein called the event a "celebration of CSA, its members and what it stands for: local support for small scale farms in our community."

This summer marks the second season for Wellspring Farm, which has about 60 members. Members, who sign up in the spring for a share in the produce grown there, can pick one of two days in the week to stop by the farm and receive fresh harvested vegetables: Salad greens, tomatoes, onions, squash, pumpkins, melons and more.

Julia Kaptan, a Wellspring CSA member, said that picking up the food is a "nice social thing." She joked that "the corn is so good you can almost eat the cob."

Arnstein says that having members socialize and visit with farm staff is fun. "Every pick-up day is like a celebration," she says.

Arnstein estimates that the cost of buying produce through the Wellspring CSA saves her customers 15 to 20 percent over the cost of buying organic produce at a farmers market or in retail stores. A full share in the farm's produce for a season costs $495. According to Arnstein, the CSA model is gaining popularity across the country. What is needed for success, says Arnstein, is a sufficient population density and a supportive community.

She also said it helps to have some low-paid labor provided by interns like Amanda Payne, who says that working on an organic farm is hard, but a great way to learn about farming. Payne, explaining that it's rewarding meeting the members and seeing them socialize, said, "They'll spend like 20 minutes picking flowers; it's beautiful."

Wellspring farm was operated as a dairy farm by the Beneman family, which stopped milking cows around 1987. It was also operated as one of Vermont's first CSAs by Les Snow (who now makes sauerkraut locally) from 1990 to 1993.

Arnstein praises the Montpelier-based culinary institute because it "puts its money where its mouth is." NECI has two full shares in the CSA, and during pick-up days, NECI students demonstrate ideas about how to cook the fresh-grown foods, and give members recipes.

NECI, which is a founding member of the Vermont Fresh Network, emphasises the use of local foods at its restaurants in Montpelier.

At The Chef's Table, says Molinari, "we've been using the delicious corn all week, in many dishes we do."

"We pick our own" says Molinari, "not many cooking schools can say that."

For NECI students, Wellspring Farm CSA members, and for the farmers themselves, that's a delicious reason to celebrate.

Persons interested in CSA membership can contact Mimi Arnstein at 426-3361, or by e-mailing her at mimiarnstein@hotmail

© 2004 Times Argus